Jewelry materials explained: stainless steel, alloy, plated and 925 silver
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Stainless steel is hard-wearing and doesn't rust; «alloy» usually means a cheap base metal such as zinc alloy, often plated; plated jewelry has a thin layer of gold or silver colour that wears off over time; 925 silver is solid sterling silver (92.5% silver) that tarnishes but can be polished.
Stainless steel
An iron alloy with chromium (and often nickel) that doesn't rust or turn your skin green. Grade 316L, sometimes sold as «surgical steel», is common in jewelry.
It is tough and keeps its look in water and sweat. It does contain some nickel; good-quality steel releases very little, but if you have a strong nickel allergy, ask before buying anything that touches the skin for long.
Alloy (zinc alloy and other base metals)
«Alloy» on a jewelry label usually means a mix of base metals, often zinc alloy, cast into shape and then plated. It keeps prices low and allows detailed shapes.
It is softer than steel, and once the plating wears through it can darken. Some base-metal alloys contain nickel.
Plated, gold-filled and vermeil
- Gold-plated (or silver- or rhodium-plated): a thin layer over a base metal or steel. Friction, water, sweat, perfume and lotion wear it away over months of regular wear.
- Gold-filled: a much thicker layer bonded to the base metal; in the US it must be at least 1/20 of the item's weight in gold of 10 karat or more (FTC Jewelry Guides).
- Vermeil: sterling silver coated with gold of at least 10 karat and 2.5 microns thick (FTC Jewelry Guides).
925 sterling silver
92.5% silver and 7.5% other metals, usually copper, for strength; often stamped «925». It tarnishes (turns darker) in air and with sweat; a silver polishing cloth brings it back. It is a good choice if base metals irritate your skin, though the other 7.5% can still contain traces of other metals.
Stones and crystals
- Cubic zirconia (CZ, «zircon» on many labels): a lab-made crystal that looks like diamond; hard and sparkly, inexpensive.
- Rhinestones and «crystal»: glass or acrylic stones, glued or set; keep them dry.
- Imitation pearl: a glass or plastic bead with a pearl coating.
What our product pages tell you
The material on each jewelry page is the one the supplier states, and is labelled that way unless we checked it ourselves. If a page says only «metal» or «alloy», assume a plated base metal.